A Christian Dior by John Galliano haute couture collar necklace from the Autumn/Winter 1998–99 “A Voyage on the Diorient Express, or the Story of the Princess Pocahontas” collection, its broad, flared pectoral form densely articulated with polychrome jewel-like elements within a gold-tone framework. Conceived as an integral part of the collection’s monumental jewellery vocabulary, the collar recalls both Renaissance ruffs and ceremonial armour, embodying Galliano’s characteristic synthesis of historical and cross-cultural references. Presented within the celebrated Gare d’Austerlitz spectacle, where models arrived aboard the “Diorient Express” steam train, the piece belongs to one of the most elaborate and defining theatrical productions of Galliano’s tenure at Dior, in which couture, jewellery and scenography were conceived as a single total image.

“Diorient Express” Collection. Fall/Winter 1998-99. Haute Couture. Look 8.